One of Scandinavia's best kept beauty secrets is cloudberry seed oil, also called "arctic gold." 

This rare arctic berry only grows in the wild, typically in hard-to-reach terrain and in extreme conditions with temperatures reaching well below -40 degrees during winter months.

Locals who know where to find this highly prized fruit guard its location very closely.

In fact, there's a folk tale of a woman who broke her leg while picking cloudberries. In her injured state, she dragged herself home in an effort to keep the whereabouts of the berries a secret!

Cloudberries, or Rubus chamaemorus, contain many skin-loving phytonutrients such as ellagitannins, phtyoceramides, essential fatty acids, and intense concentrations of vitamin C.

The seeds yield an amber-colored oil that is deeply nourishing and helps prevent accelerated skin aging.

This Arctic gold is found in both our Alpine Phytonutrient Serum and The Purist Delicate Skin Serum and contains unique adaptogenic compounds highly beneficial to skin health.

Benefits of Cloudberries

Sunshine lifts our spirits, brightens our days, and provides essential Vitamin D.

But if you're a skincare aficionado, you're well aware of the sun's darker side. Ultraviolet rays can cause premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and, at worst, skin cancer. 

You likely already know the importance of slathering on sunscreen, donning wide-brimmed hats, and staying in the shade during peak UV hours. 

But, did you know that certain skincare ingredients can actually increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun?

From powerful skin lighteners to popular skin exfoliators, there's a laundry list of ingredients in skincare products that can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, leading to quicker sunburns, pigment changes, and a potentially increased risk of skin cancer. 

In this post, we'll dive into the nitty-gritty of photosensitivity, highlighting those innocent-looking bottles on your bathroom counter that could secretly be turning your skin into a UV magnet. 

Ingredients That Can Cause Photosensitivity

Let's explore seven of the most common skincare ingredients that can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun.

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids (AHAs and BHAs)

AHAs and BHAs are prominent players in the skincare world for their role in exfoliation. Glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid are among the most common. 

By promoting the shedding of dead skin cells, these ingredients can leave newer, more vulnerable skin exposed, making your skin more susceptible to sun damage. 

Hydroxy acids can also break down your skin’s acid mantle and disrupt skin barrier function. This can lead to an imbalance in skin PH and make it vulnerable to additional environmental irritants. Using a nutrient-rich recovery serum like our Alpine Phytonutrient or Purist Delicate Skin Serum can help skin bounce back more quickly and support skin barrier health. 

If hydroxy acids are a standard ingredient in your skincare routine, take extra care to protect your skin from sun exposure.

Chemical Sunscreens

It might sound paradoxical, but certain chemical sunscreens can sometimes provoke a photosensitive reaction. 

Ingredients such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and octinoxate absorb UV radiation, transform it into heat, and release it from the skin.

A study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed that some people can have allergic reactions to these chemical absorbers, which can manifest as photosensitivity.

In addition, several of these chemical sunscreen ingredients, like octocrylene, degrade during sun exposure becoming benzophenone, a compound suspected of being carcinogenic and endocrine disrupting. 

Traditional Retinoids

Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A and are lauded for their anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits. Unfortunately, they can also make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. 

This sensitivity is due to the thinning of the stratum corneum, the skin's outermost layer. A study in the Archives of Dermatology confirmed that the use of topical tretinoin resulted in increased sun sensitivity. 

Botanical retinoid alternatives, like Dew Bean, found in our Aspen Dew Illuminating Essence, are a gentler alternative to traditional retinoids and do not cause photosensitivity. 

Certain Citrus Essential Oils

Specific citrus essential oils, such as Bergamot, Lemon, and Lime, can induce a phototoxic reaction when applied to the skin, followed by exposure to the sun.

The compounds responsible for this effect are called furanocoumarins. Never apply these essential oils directly onto your skin and avoid using skincare products with these ingredients prior to sun exposure. 

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide works to prevent breakouts by delivering oxygen to skin pores, killing the anaerobic (unable to live in oxygen) P. acnes bacteria responsible for acne formation. It also helps to exfoliate the skin, removing dead skin cells that can clog pores.

Unfortunately, benzoyl peroxide can also make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. The mechanism by which it causes photosensitivity isn't yet completely understood, but it is believed that it increases the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation by inducing oxidative stress.

The mild irritation and redness that accompany benzoyl peroxide use can be exacerbated by sun exposure. 

Hydroquinone

Like many other skin-lightening agents, hydroquinone can cause photosensitivity. This is because it disrupts the production and distribution of melanin, which naturally helps protect skin from harmful UV radiation. Using hydroquinone can make your skin more susceptible to UV damage.

While effective, hydroquinone is best used with caution. Not only can hydroquinone cause photosensitivity, but it also increased the risk of developing a condition called ochronosis, a rare but potentially permanent skin discoloration.

For a natural alternative, our Aspen Dew Illuminating Essence contains Aspen Bark which brightens skin without the photosensitizing side effects.

Always use sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using hydroquinone. It should not be used for long periods without a break and always under the supervision of a dermatologist.

Accutane

Accutane, now called Isotretinoin, is a highly potent drug that can lead to serious side effects, the least of which is increased sun sensitivity and burning. Always wear SPF 50+ if you are using Accutane as part of your skincare routine and never use it without medical supervision.

So now you're probably thinking, "Great, I can't use anything anymore!" Hold your horses! There's no need to throw out half your beauty cabinet. 

How to minimize photosensitivity

Understanding how your beauty routine might be making you photosensitive is half the battle. Here’s what you can do about it.

Know Your Ingredients: Get in the habit of reading product labels. Understand what's in your beauty products and how they may impact your skin. 

Apply Sunscreen Religiously: Non-toxic mineral sunscreen is your best friend, rain or shine. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays, and don't skimp on it!

Avoid Direct Sunlight: The sun's rays are the most harmful between 10 AM and 4 PM, so try to stay in the shade during these hours.

Wear Protective Clothing: Wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and long-sleeved clothing can provide additional protection.

Just like Sid the Seagull reminds us in one of the most successful health campaigns in Australia's history, “Slip! Slop! Slap!”

Slip on a shirt, slop on some sunscreen, and slap on a hat before you go out in the sun! If you haven’t seen it yet it’s worth Googling. 

And always check with your healthcare provider or dermatologist about the potential photosensitivity effects of both your skincare products and medications.

Sources:

J. Kim, K. J. Park, H. J. Park, E. Kim, Y. H. Kim, J. M. Park, and Y. I. Park. “Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Skin Aging: The Role of DNA Damage and Oxidative Stress in Epidermal Stem Cell Damage Mediated Skin Aging.” Stem Cells International, vol. 2016, Article ID 7370642, 14 pages, 2016. 

Ditre, CM et al. “Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology vol. 34,2 Pt 1 (1996): 187-95. 

Nash, JF and Tanner, PR. “Relevance of UV filter/sunscreen product photostability to human safety.” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, vol. 30,2-3 (2014): 88-95. 

Mukherjee, S et al. “Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety.” Clinical Interventions in Aging, vol.1,4 (2006): 327-348. 

Kligman, LH. “Effects of all-trans-retinoic acid on the dermis of hairless mice.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol.15,4 Pt 2 (1986): 779-85, 866-7. 

Moore, DE. “Drug-induced cutaneous photosensitivity: incidence, mechanism, prevention and management.” Drug Safety, vol.25,5 (2002): 345-72. 

Lim, HW et al. “American Academy of Dermatology Consensus Conference on UVA protection of sunscreens: summary and recommendations. American Academy of Dermatology.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 44,6 (2001): 505-8. 

Most of us are well aware of the risks associated with sun exposure and the importance of sun protection as a means of skin cancer prevention. 

But do you know exactly how UV rays damage your skin? 

In this three-part series dedicated to Skin Cancer Awareness Month, we'll first explore the impact of UV rays on skin DNA and structure. In subsequent posts, we’ll highlight some powerful skincare ingredients that offer fortifying and restorative benefits to sun-damaged skin as well as cover other ways in which you can protect your skin from ultraviolet damage.

The following are five ways in which ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun, primarily UVA and UVB rays, cause damage to the skin:

1. DNA damage and skin cancer risk 

UVB rays can directly damage the DNA in skin cells. This damage to our skin’s genetic code can lead to mutations that can result in skin cancer such as basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma. This is in part due to the fact that the DNA damage continues hours after our exposure to the sun has ended.

• Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30
• Wear protective clothing, sunglasses, and wide-brimmed hats
• Seek shade during peak sun hours (10 am-4 pm)

2. Sunburn and inflammation 

UVB rays are the main culprits of sunburn, an acute response to excessive UV exposure characterized by redness, inflammation, and sometimes blistering. The safest way to prevent sunburn is to cover up, use SPF 50+, and avoid sun exposure when ultraviolet rays are at their strongest, between 10 am-4 pm.

• Apply and reapply sunscreen every 2 hours
• Wear sun-protective clothing
• Avoid peak sun hours (10 am-4 pm)

3. Pigmentation changes

UVA and UVB rays stimulate melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) in the skin, leading to the development of freckles, age spots, and uneven skin tone. An additional unfortunate byproduct of melanin production is DNA derivatives called cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). CPDs are associated with an increased risk of melanoma. UVA rays penetrate the deepest into the skin and can pass through panes of glass (such as car windows) and cloud cover.

• Use sunscreen daily, even on cloudy days
• Incorporate brightening skincare products to fade pigmentation
• Consult a dermatologist for personalized treatment options

4. Collagen and elastin degradation 

UVA rays can damage collagen and elastin fibers in the skin. This damage results in premature skin aging characterized by wrinkles, and loss of skin structure which leads to sagging skin and overall loss of elasticity.

• Apply sunscreen to protect against UVA and UVB rays
• Include skincare products with antioxidants and collagen-boosting ingredients like our Alpine Phytonutrient Serum.
• Consider professional treatments to stimulate collagen production

5. Blood vessel dilation

UVA rays can cause dilation of blood vessels in the skin, contributing to erythema (redness) and inflammation.

• Use a physical sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide
• Choose skincare products with calming ingredients, such as aloe vera like our Aspen Dew Illuminating Essence.
• Consult a dermatologist for treatments targeting redness and inflammation

While the most foolproof way of protecting your skin from ultraviolet rays is to stay out of the sun, this is not always possible or desirable. 

You can however protect your skin by making a habit of wearing non-toxic mineral sunscreen daily. And you can fortify your skin against the sun by using skin care products that fight oxidative stress and free radical damage.  

With powerful free radical scavenging ingredients like Edelweiss and Bearberry extract, The Aspen Dew Illuminating Essence supports skin health both before and after sun exposure.

UV Rays FAQs

How do UV rays damage the skin?

A: UV rays can damage the skin in various ways, including causing DNA damage, sunburn, pigmentation changes, collagen and elastin degradation, and blood vessel dilation.

What's the difference between UVA and UVB rays?

A: UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and contribute to premature aging, while UVB rays are responsible for sunburn and DNA damage. Both types can contribute to skin cancer.

How can I protect my skin from UV damage?

A: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30, wear sun-protective clothing, sunglasses, and wide-brimmed hats, and seek shade during peak sun hours (10 am-4 pm).

Sources cited:

1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10365447/
2. https://www.who.int/uv/faq/uvhealtfac/en/index1.html
3. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/6836296_Mouret_S_Baudouin_C_Charveron_M_Favier_A_Cadet_J_Douki_TCyclobutane_pyrimidine_dimers_are_predominant_DNA_lesions_in_whole_human_skin_exposed_to_UVA_radiation_Proc_Natl_Acad_Sci_USA_10313765-13770
4. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19675548/
5. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25653189/

Moringa (Moringa oleifera) is known as the "Miracle Tree."

This tenacious plant, a native to the foothills of the Himalayas, can withstand severe climatic conditions, including severe drought and frost. These extreme conditions may increase moringa’s adaptogenic potential making it the perfect skin superfood.

One study shows moringa seed oil may facilitate healing acute physiological and chronic wounds, accelerating the healing process, acting positively on collagen content and myofibroblasts.*. 

Morning seed oil is found in our Alpine Phytonutrient Serum and is a skin nutrient powerhouse.

Benefits of Moringa Seed Oil

Recovery

Moringa seeds are rich in oleic acid (omega 9) and behenic acid which support skin barrier function. These fatty acids may reduce epidermal inflammation and protect the skin from cellular damage.

Healing

Moringa seed oil has been shown in studies to accelerate rates of wound healing, reduce inflammation, and increase collagen content in the skin. It has high levels of vitamin A, vitamin C, B vitamins, and manganese.

Moisturizing

Morning seed oil is a natural phytoceramide that has been shown in studies to effectively boost skin recovery and protect against trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Anti-aging

Containing both phenolic compounds and glucosinolates, these phytonutrients provide powerful anti-oxidant protection from lifestyle-induced free radicals. Moringa seed oil may prevent premature aging caused by UV exposure and pollutants.  

Soothing

Glucosinolates offer microbial and anti-inflammatory benefits. This phytonutrient calms and soothes the skin and protects it from inflammatory processes that may lead to accelerated skin aging.